Borinquen

I was oot and aboot yesterday in Humboldt Park, riding my bike, when I grew peckish. I came upon a likely-looking place that said Jibaritos and Lechon Asado in big letters in the window, and when I peeked in, the place was mobbed, which I took to be a good sign. There’s takeout in the front, so at first I thought I had to wait in line, but there are two dining rooms, one to the left and one to the back, and I got a table right away. It’s a little divey, but homey and full of families and young people and old people — lots of people, eating lots of food, speaking lots of languages (or at least spanish and english). This is Borinquen Restaurant.
There are some cool looking appetizers — i saw a skewer of meat and a big fried ball of something (plantain I’d guess) going to another table — and mixed plates, but I got the headline dish, the jibarito with lechon asado. I’d had a jibarito at Rudy’s Taste, which I found hard to eat and ultimately disappointing, so the fabulousness that arrived on the plate here was truly heartwarming.
jibarito & rice
Imagine some nice flavorful roast pork, in a sandwich with lettuce and tomato, glued together with a bit of cheese whiz and a generous dollop of mayo. Now imagine that instead of bread, there are two toothsome slabs of plantain, smashed flat and fried crisp in — wait for it, this where it gets really good — hot oil with so much garlic in it that globs of garlic stick to the outside of the sandwich. The garlicky goodness wafted up to me immediately, and I started thinking happy thoughts about the world and everyone in it (those of you who know me know how uncharacteristic that is). I am so grateful for all of the different kinds of people in the world, each of whom figures out these amazing and wonderful new things for me to eat. I mean, who thought this thing up? It’s brilliant.
It comes with a big pile of yellow rice, studded with beans and bits of ham and chorizo. Usually the rice in these situations is pretty dull stuff, just there to fill space, but this was really delicious. Happily, there’s a recipe for it on the website of the restaurant. 🙂 And they have Hawaiian Punch, for which I have a soft spot a mile wide, and I have to say, it goes really, really well with a savory treat like this jibarito.
It’s not on Metromix, which strikes me as bizarre, but that’s ok — we don’t want too many more people to find it, or we won’t be able to get a table.

yummy treat from austria #2


B also brought back an exquisite little miniature Sacher torte, nestled in its wooden box straight from the Hotel Sacher itself, which we shared at a gathering of friends while I was back in Boston recently. I miss all my friends there, and I wish I could just pack them all up and bring them here with me, so they can enjoy what I’m enjoying and always be close at hand. Alas, it is not possible, and so we drowned our sorrow in dark chocolaty apricot goodness.

yummy treat from austria #1

my dear friend B took a trip to vienna recently, and apparently ate nothing but pork and strudels. Not really. But almost, and wouldn’t that have been fun?
And then he brought me back this little bottle of joy.

Apparently this is a great Austrian specialty: the oil of toasted pumpkin seeds. It’s all dark brown and nutty, with that interesting bite of acridity that pumpkin seeds have. Lovely drizzled on roasted winter squash, and I can’t wait to put some into a squash soup or a celeriac soup. Yummy! Thanks, B!

the experiment

When I got back from holiday break on January 3, I had a bunch of leftovers from the familial celebrations, and there were a few things kicking around the kitchen after the roommate’s departure. And I was exhausted and busy, and didn’t really get around to grocery shopping, and I kept cobbling together meals from what I had, and finally it occurred to me that considering how jam-packed my cupboards were (compared to my nearly-empty refrigerator), I should make a game out of it and see how long I could go without buying any food whatsoever. (This is what happens to you when you are a foodwhore and squirrel away treats and ingredients in every spare corner of your kitchen.)
And thus was born The Experiment. I decided that I should make a special dispensation for buying milk, since you can’t exactly stockpile fresh milk, and that I could be allowed the occasional meal out, since refusing social interaction for the sake of a pretty nerdy self-experiment seemed somehow wrong. Here are the stats:
half gallons of milk: 2, plus pint heavy cream for making sherbert
lunches out w/ coworkers or at clientsite: 2
Perez lunches: 5 — it was cold, i needed soups! (this was the closest i got to cheating, because invariably Perez yields a bounty of leftover tortillas and at least 2 meals per purchase)
fancy dinners I didn’t pay for: 2
weekend w/ MG visiting: 4 meals out total (tacos –> leftover nopalitos & refritos & tortillas)
weekend w/ELF visiting: 4 meals out total (dinner –> ribs & fries I ate for lunch later)
Except for these meals and the leftovers they occasionally generated, I went from January 3 to February 3 without buying any food at all. NO FOOD BUYING FOR 30 DAYS, and I cooked all the freaking time. I could have gone longer but the fry fest was on February 3 and I had to get things for that. After that, I ate more leftovers and cabinet contents, and didn’t really and truly do a grocery shop until yesterday, when I went batshit at Stanley’s and bought 20 bucks worth of vegetables.
I suspect that I got mildly malnourished during this experiment. I’ve been tired and cranky, and feeling almost sick, for a week or so if not more, and I’m craving fruit and vegetables — i keep buying nutrient-rich juices on impulse — and craving chicken, which is light and low in fat unlike all the heavy winter pastas and beans and meats I’ve been eating. I really didn’t eat enough fruit & veg the last two months, certainly not enough vitamin C except for the limes that come with meals at Perez. I’m really happy about the beet salad in my fridge and the rutabaga mash I’m having for lunch and the broccoli I’m going to have this weekend.
Here’s what I had to work with, beyond staples like flour and spices and oil:
frozen thai meatballs from roommate’s mom
frozen veg – asparagus & broccoli
frozen salmon & shrimp
canned beans
canned tuna
canned fancy wild salmon & razor clams & oysters from my dad over a year ago
box of mushroom soup
eggs
2 dogs/buns from roommate
radicchio & parsley
limes from tallasiandude’s mom’s tree
leftover lamb leg from roommate’s bon voyage dinner
leftover bread
kimchi & rice-pucks
2 kinds of salumi leftover from brother’s xmas gift to me
scraps of cheese
yogurts
cookies & crackers from holidays, including 2 boxes of pb & cheese sandwich crackers
brownies
dates stuffed with walnuts
2 carrots & 1 onion
1 large red kuri squash
jar of moroccan carrot spread
jar of pickled mushrooms
3 lbs rotini, whole wheat & regular
jar red roasted peppers
can olives
broth & tomatoes in cans
dried fruits
Here’s a sampling of what I made and ate during this experiment:
cold lamb w/ baguette & spicy carrot spread
spicy lamb stew w/ beans, carrot, tomato w/ stale-baguette toasts or tortilla toasts
cereal + milk, till the cereal ran out
cookies, brownies, yogurts for breakfasts
lunches & dinners of sandwich crackers + chocolate bonbons from dad
tuna w/ jalapeno, beans, peppers, with crostini crackers
lamb broth w/ whole wheat rotini, lamb shreds & meatballs

eggs w/ birria meat & parsley & pickled nopalitos, with leftover beans & reheated tortillas = brunch for 2
gratin of stale bread, peppery salumi & strong italian cheese, w/ eggs & leftover cream
Trader Joe’s soycutash with nopalitos & leftover pico de gallo, tortilla chips
soycutash with birria meat & nopalitos
mushroom soup with various croutons & chips and other junk
canned wild salmon mixed with mayo, eaten on some sort of starch (surprisingly good for canned salmon)

salmon w/ pasta/asparagus/radicchio/garlic, with sprouted onion garnish – this salmon was frozen, from Trader Joe’s

pasta w/ tuna in oil, roast peppers, parmesan olives, last of the parsley & sprouted onion

kimchi treat with pucks & freezerburned bacon & frozen shrimps (made w/ piloncillo instead of brown sugar – came out very yum)
crazy rice plain, also crazy rice re-cooked with cream & piloncillo
hot dogs w/ spicy mustard & homemade pickles

limeade & lime sherbert from at least 4 pounds of limes
More recently it’s been packaged ramen with defrosted thai meatballs and fish cake, and carrots scavenged from the bottom of the bin. That and a big pan of another gratin of squash, mole-salumi and mozzarella leftover from fry fest.

Seriously, it’s amazing how many awesome meals can be made from what at first glance appears to be nothing. Granted, eating sandwich crackers and nothing else for lunch is perhaps more than is called for by simple thrift, but I have given myself a new resolve to eat only from what I have until what I have is gone, and ONLY THEN to go food shopping. We’ll see how I do — I’m like a magpie, except that instead of shiny objects I get distracted by fabulous condiments and pretty cuts of meat and exotic vegetables.

seeking the chicago dog

I had the kickass jumbo dog at the United Center, and that got me thinking: I’ve not had any other proper Chicago-style dog since I moved. So i started looking around for some. And taking tallasiandude to get some. And we found mostly sad, small weiners only vaguely in the same vicinity as the full salad+celery salt condiment array that is required.
So we did what any sane dog-seeker would do: We asked the homeless guy who asked us for money. He directed us to Tony’s Place at Chicago and State. Which is open nice and late, and has a decent dog, but I am still searching. Maybe what I want is really a polish? I am imagining that a polish is a kielbasa, which is stronger flavored and thicker than I have in mind, but perhaps I am just mistaken about that.
Tony's Place
I’ve heard Gold Coast Dogs is good, and i want to go try Superdawg because those dog-statues on the roof crack me up. And my coworker says to try the Weiner’s Circle but only late at night when drunk. Anyone with a good lead on a serious Chicago dog, with good beefy dog flavor underneath a piquant salad of dill pickle, mustard, hot sport peppers, onions, fresh tomato and celery salt, let me know. Thanks!

moon palace & making friends

There don’t seem to be too many food bloggers in Chicago, for whatever reason, but one whose blog I like a lot does live here, or at least occasionally she lives here, and last week I reached out of my usual reclusive misanthropic shell and met up with my first real live food blogger, Cindy from foodmigration. She’s awesome, and we made friends (yay!), and selflessly *ahem* explored the shanghainese offerings of Moon Palace, the only place I’ve been able to dig up that has anything on the menu remotely resembling what I’ve gotten used to at Wing’s in Boston.
We had xiao long bao, soup dumplings, which were delicious — they are bigger than usual, with a thicker wrapping, and with way more meat than soup, so they’re not in contention with top-notch soup dumplings, but they taste good and frankly a tasty nonstandard soup dumpling is better than no soup dumpling at all. Cindy’d never had any xiao long bao, and she loved these, so I can’t wait for her to get out to California and have soup dumplings at Din Tai Fung in Los Angeles. (WATCH OUT: The link plays music. Sigh.) She in for a TREAT. 🙂
The dumplings were the starter, along with some spare ribs steamed in spicy black bean sauce wrapped in a lotus leaf — good, but in no way spicy. We were distracted by trying to get to know each other and cross-examine the menu at the same time, but eventually we got ourselves sorted out enough to order more dishes.
We’d heard that Moon Palace had a braised pork shoulder, and from the photos on LTHforum it looked a lot like the dish at Wing’s that I call Pork As Big As Your Head. We ordered that, which Moon Palace calls braised pork thigh, along with rice cakes with pickled vegetable and bamboo shoots, and some clearly fried shrimp. The shrimp weren’t on the menu, and I had to try and explain what I wanted because I couldn’t remember the chinese words for it, but once we had established that the dish i was after was a) free of vegetables, b) not spicy, c) sauteed, and d) in a clear sauce, they knew what I wanted and told me i could have it. Yay! Cindy’d never had rice cakes, either, so I was thrilled to share my love for the chewy white pucks of joy, along with my recipe for cooking them with kimchi. Heh. The pucks here were delish, in a yummy dish of pickled salty veg, bamboo shoot slices, and pork, because no vegetarian dish is complete without pork, right? And the clearly fried shrimp were good too. The shrimps are regular shrimp, bigger than the special type of shrimp that you get on a good day at Wing’s and every day at Mandarin Chateau, and the sauce is somehow thicker and more visible, but I ain’t complaining — they were yummy. Tallasiandude says that I’ve been spoiled by starting out with the creme de la creme of the dish, and that most other versions of clearly fried shrimps come with that thicker sauce.
And the pork as big as your head? Perhaps not quite as big as my head, and it didn’t fall off the bone as soon as you glance at it sideways, but it was succulent and fatty and full of that lovely brown savory sauce, and we both liked it very much. Cindy had just made a big pot of veal stock and wasn’t up for more along the same lines, so I took the bone home and am going to make soup out of it, probably this weekend. (which i did – here’s a picture of it:)
pork mushroom noodle soup
So it still remains to be seen if Moon Palace passes the tallasiandude test, but so far it’s the best there is in these parts, and I will definitely go back — sometimes a girl just has to have soup dumplings and rice pucks and a big braised brown pork shoulder. And it’s nice to have a new friend in Chicago. 🙂
[photos are coming — camera pictures are hard b/c sometimes my download tool doesn’t work, and i am too cheap to pay 25 cents or whatever per picture.]

one more way chicago is DIFFERENT

i saved up all the beer bottles from the deep-fry party so i could return them and get the deposits back. So this morning I looked on line to find out where to take them, and couldn’t find anything. I looked up Whole Foods, figuring they’re all crunchy-granola and will undoubtedly take them, and nothing. So I called them up, and they acted all confused, and put me on hold to go find an eco-focused dude in the beer department — at which point the lightbulb went on and I went to check the labels on the bottles, and lo, ILLINOIS DOESN’T HAVE A BOTTLE BILL.
DUH.
It never occurred to me that a place wouldn’t have a bottle bill, even though for 35 years I’ve been reading the list on bottle labels of the tiny handful of states that DO have them. Oy — you can take the girl out of the east coast, but you can’t take the east coast out of the girl, at least not so easily. Dang. Now I have to put them all in the trash, bah.

universal laws of korean restaurants

My favorite place to eat Korean in Boston is Wu Chon House in Somerville. That is where i first encountered my favorite food, their version of tofu kimchi bokum. So you can imagine the shrieking and jumping up and down that occurred when I drove past a place called Woo Chon Restaurant here in Chicago.
I had to try it, just for the amusement value alone. I’d been twice to Hai Woon Dae, just because that was the only one I could remember both times I was called on to get a group of people to a Korean BBQ. So when tallasiandude was in town recently and had a yen for kalbi & soju, we decided to try Woo Chon. (particularly appropriate since he knows and loves the Somerville Wu Chon also) All we needed was adequate eats and we would have been happy, but Woo Chon smacked it out of the park — it was WAY better than the already-good Hai Woon Dae. There must be a law in the universe that all restaurants called Woo Chon totally rule.
Chicago Woo Chon
We tried to order kalbi and some crazy black-pepper dish I forget exactly, but we couldn’t have that because it wasn’t cooked on the coals like the kalbi, so we ended up with kalbi and giant prawns for the grill, and a dish of kimchi bokum to start. We had barely ordered and gotten some very nice barley tea before the best scallion pancake I’ve ever had arrived at the table for no charge. (free! crunchy! eggy! oh yeah!)
Chicago Woo Chon
The kimchi bokum is my second favorite version — my heart still belongs to Wu Chon’s back home, but this version is very fresh and light in flavor, tangy and bright and full of lovely fatty pork and spicy vegetables. Quite different in style from my beloved, but very definitely yummy. Very happy to have found a worthy version of this here in Chicago.
And then the main course arrived. I don’t usually post really big photos here, but behold the glory of a Woo Chon bbq spread:
Chicago Woo Chon
Head-on prawns. Glorious kalbi. More fucking pan chan than I have ever seen in one place, and ALL OF THEM freaking amazing. Holy crap. YUM. They use the inside leaves of the lettuce that can’t be used as bbq wraps in a salad topped with fabulous dressing. They make a couple awesome kimchi styles. Two kinds of sweet daikon pickle (be still my heart). An insanely good pickled oyster mushroom, of which they kindly brought us a refill dish when we’d demolished the first one. Spectacular cucumber pickle slices. Bean sprouts, garlic, fish cake, dried silver fishies, the ubiquitous potato salad. Crazy good sweet red dried squid. A sesame oil + black pepper dipping sauce for the prawns, and a spicy bean paste for the kalbi. Dear god, we ate until we couldn’t eat no more, and then we ate more. And knocked back a bottle of soju, ’cause that always seems like the right thing to do.
Chicago Woo Chon
Very late in the meal, tallasiandude (a self-proclaimed “damn rice eater”) recovered enough from the kalbi euphoria to crave some rice, and asked the waitress for a bowl. She looked mildly confused and told us it was already coming, and moments later a bowl of pretty purple rice arrived along with another bowl of spicy miso stew. We had no idea it was coming (free, again) or we might have considered a) not letting our gluttony run completely amok, or b) not ordering that kimchi bokum. We tried valiantly to eat it all, it was so good, but we just couldn’t. But since we are totally going back there, we can do it right next time.
To top off an already perfect meal, they brought us the little tiny bottles of fruity yogurt drink that we love so much, that seem only to appear in Korean restaurants, and that are the most perfect thing after a big spicy meal.
Random afternote: LTHForum has a recent thread about korean bbq, and says there’s a kalbi special at Kang Nam through end of February – I guess i will have to try it, but after that I am going straight back to Woo Chon.

care and feeding

Back from a 2-day bidness trip to Toledo, and though it went just fine, spending that much time in on-mode pretty well knocked me on my ass. Feeling sniffly and vaguely queasy from the flight, I staggered into the house and made instant tom yum ramen spiked with extra carrots, cabbage, zucchini, fish cake & thai meatballs. And then I watched Star Trek: The Next Generation, flipping channels to What Not To Wear during the commercials. Which helped, but I still felt el-crapola. And I have no herbal tea in the house. And no lemons with which to make a hot toddy. What I did have, though, is some Rose’s Lime Juice, some fancy German honey, some Gosling’s Spiced Rum, and a kettleful of hot water. The half-assed homemaker’s last-minute toddy – yum yum.

crack sandwich

[This post has been languishing unpublished for months — I decided to set it free even without its photo.] Went to a lovely dinner party at friends of friends the other day, which by the way consisted of a lamb-greenbean-tomato stew that I’d actually been eyeing for years in the New York Cookbook (yummy, it turns out) served with mashed potatoes and parsnips, and a prune/rum bread pudding. Delish. However, the thing I found completely irresistable was a packet of cookies labeled “Crack Sandwich” in big letters, brought as a gift by one of the other guests. I sneaked it out into the hallway to snap a camera-phone image of it, so i could share with you all on the interweb. I am such a nerd. (Update: And I should be stripped of my nerd credentials, since i appear to have deleted the photo before uploading it. AAAGGHH! Try this link to a photo of a similar product: http://www.nocommercialpotential.net/failagain/2005/09/crack_sandwich.html)