pork with prunes


1 lb boneless country style ribs (or thick pork chops)
3 small shallots (or 1 giant), sliced
big handful of dried prunes, maybe a cup’s worth
sherry vinegar
sherry
bourbon
2 cups chicken broth &/or water
juniper berries
ground allspice
salt & pepper
flour
olive oil
1 tbsp butter
Salt & pepper the pork. Sprinkle with a bunch of flour and dredge well. Heat olive oil in a large deep skillet or dutch oven and brown the meat well on all sides. Add the butter, and when melted add the shallots. Saute till shallots start to go clear, then sprinkle a bit of the allspice over everything, and keep frying. Add 10 juniper berries, several tablespoons of vinegar, a splash of bourbon, and maybe 1/4 cup of sherry. Put in the prunes, cut up if you like, and the broth. Bring to simmer, and braise for a good long time. I covered mine for a while, but then left it open to reduce. I forgot about mine completely, so it stewed for at least 2 hours and nearly burned, but the meat got all nice and soft and the sauce is thick & velvety.

my brother is so cool


He has friends who give him freshly foraged chanterelles. And this is what they do with them:
“Favorite recipe of the
moment, in addition to dead ass plain:
Sautee over medium/high with no oil. Allow to cook in its own juices until
1/2 cooked. Add a tablespoon of butter and a splash of white wine. Reduce
by around 1/3, and add some heavy cream. Return to a simmer for a minute or
two. Salt/Pepper. Eat.
Made mushroom risotto and mushroom bruschetta so far. Pizza tonight, and
eggs tomorrow. We were fantasizing about northwest triple crown:
Chanterelle and crab stuffed wild salmon fillet. Or perhaps grilled wild
halibut smothered in chanterelles…”

why the italians deserve their reputation

Because they are capable of producing dishes like the one we ate in a neighborhood osteria in Milan, near our friends’ apartment, called La Piola. Everything that came to the table for the four of us was spectacular, but the porcini risotto was just completely out of control in its exquisite deliciousness and intense mushroominess. A true foodgasm.
All the risottos we had on the trip were perfectly cooked, exactly the right texture of soft creamy with a firm bite, even the ones at the wedding. Since when have you ever had good food at a wedding? Same goes for the gnocchi — fluffy little cloud-pillows robed in cheese. Hot damn.
LA PIOLA
Viale Abruzzi, 23 (Circonvallazione)
Tel.02/29531271
Sadly, we’d left the camera in the friends’ apartment during dinner by mistake, so no pictures of the foodgasm. You’ll just have to trust me.

while i get organized

to post about my food adventures in europe, here is what i made for dinner last night. There was a big sale on beef chuck roast at Whole Paycheck, and I’d been eyeing the daube provencale recipe in Cook’s Illustrated, and this is what happened.

Put the oven on 325F. Trim the fat from the roast and cut it into big chunks, 2-3″ or so. Salt & pepper them, then brown in olive oil in your dutch oven. Take them out when brown on all sides, and add a bit more oil, along with a sliced onion, 2-3 carrots cut into chunks, and 2-3 potatoes (i used yukon gold) cut into chunks. Sprinkle with salt & fry until they’ve taken on most of the color from the brown bits on the bottom of the pan, then sprinkle them with several tablespoons of flour and cook until it browns. Add in most of a bottle of red wine. Also add 2 cups of hot water in which you’ve soaked some broken up dried shiitakes and about 1/4 of a bouillon cube that was left over. Add some dried thyme or savory, a bay leaf (i didn’t have one last night, fresh out), a few shots of vietnamese fish sauce, a tablespoon of harissa, a cut up head of fennel and strips of zest from about half an orange. Bring it up to a simmer, then put the meat and juices back in, submerging them. Add some olives if you like. Bung it in the oven with the top on partially and leave it there for 3 hours. You might want to stir it once or twice as the surface does get a bit grotty looking from the dry heat. Makes the house smell lovely. The magazine recipe asked for tomatoes and parsley at the end, but i just ate it as it was and didn’t miss them.

while I’m at it

I have been so busy lately that I was reduced to a bbq-sauce drenched rotisserie chicken from that overpriced hellhole, Jewel — and my roommate bought it since i didn’t have time to go to the store. That’d be why there’s been no posts lately. But fear not, I am going to Italy and Amsterdam, and there be good eatin’ in those parts. Stay tuned next week.

oh for fuck’s sake

“This morning, President Bush nominated Harriet Miers to replace retiring Justice Sandra Day O’Connor on the Supreme Court. Miers is a long-time political appointee, campaign counsel, personal lawyer and Bush loyalist who has never served as a judge.”
I don’t generally want to drag politics into this blog, but you have got to be kidding. Never served as a judge? Fucking hell.

variations


it’s raining in chicago and I’m feeling like I’m coming down sick, so today when the roommate started ordering Thai takeout, I said I wanted some tom yum — spicy sour soup. But he said it was a total ripoff at the local joint, 6 bucks for a cup of soup, so i bagged it — but the craving didn’t go away. Happily, the resulting brainwave combined with two packets of the roommate’s thai ramen (tom yum flavor!) to become some great comfort food.
I’ve said it before and i’ll say it again: ANYTHING, particularly a soup, that involves both fish sauce and lime juice is by definition yummy.
Chicken broth and water, boiled with some dried shiitakes thrown in, ramen noodles added along with spice packets, half a can of leftover diced tomatoes, juice of half a lime, and scrambled egg dribbled in as egg-drop. Squeeze more lime in to serve. We ran out of cilantro or there’d be some of that in there too. Sour spicy hot broth goodness.

subsistence, part 2


sometimes when the world is just too horrible, you need something comforting. And more often than not, especially for tallasiandude and increasingly for me, that thing is spicy korean ramen, with egg poached in it. Takes 5 minutes, costs a dollar, and is hot and soupy and spicy and brothy goodness. It’s gotta be this particular kind of ramen, though, or it’s not as good. And lately I’ve started putting in carrots and canned tomato as well, which makes it into more of a stew.

subsistence


For the second summer running, I’ve been eating variations of this dish practically every other day since the beginning of August. Can’t resist it. Tomatoes, corn cut off the cob, some kind of cheese, vinegar & oil, salt & pepper, plus other stuff as available: herbs, zucchini, peppers, whatever. Takes less than 5 minutes to throw together, ingredients hold well over the course of a busy week, intensely satisfying yet light and healthy.
This version was super-extra-fancy: red & green zebra tomatoes, corn, blanched zucchini, feta, parsley and minced jalapenos. Yum.