meatfest


In my family, we don’t usually cook much for Christmahanukwanzaka. Instead, we hunt and gather for delectable morsels and then graze all day long on smoked fish, spendy cheese, cured meats, and other cocktail-time treats. This year was no exception, and my brother came through with the goods: fabulous fatty smoked sockeye from Washington State, a trio of the finest salumi on earth, and a stash of Pennsylvania Dutch treasures.
The salumi is the handiwork of Armandino Batali, proprietor and genius host of Salumi in Seattle. He makes his own cured meats, both in traditional Italian styles and in creative new flavors like lamb prosciutto and vanilla salami. This year’s selection was perennial-favorite oregano salami, mole salami with deep dark choco-mexi-spice, and some spicy paprika sticks. My brother used to work down the street and ate lunch there a few times a week, and every year he brings meat presents from Salumi for us back east. (The restaurant makes the best Italian food I’ve ever had anywhere, but it’s only open for lunch. Plan ahead.)
The Pennsylvania Dutch stash was mailordered from Dietrich’s Meats. Left to right in the photo, after the salumi on the far left, there’s sweet & spicy stix, Lebanon bologna (a super-smoky beef treat, oh yeah), spicy pickled bologna, mustard bean pickles (really good, on the very short list of best pickles ever), and pork roll fried to a crunchy goodness.
It’s been a very happy holiday. Slurp.

mendiants for xmas!

so we finally made some goodies for Christmas gifts… and merci to Clotilde at Chocolate & Zucchini for her inspiration: mendiants. My friend M whipped some up for her family in my kitchen (completely unassisted, I might add, since I was off learning to snowboard unexpectedly, woohoo!)… and they came out *gorgeous*. She used candied ginger, dried cherries, dried cranberries, yogurt covered raisins, giant golden raisins, peanuts, pecans, and almonds, and got some really pretty color combinations. Rather delicious, too.
She made Clotilde’s truffle recipe too, but I haven’t seen the finished product: she made off with the ganache & the coatings to finish them at the last minute. I did taste a bit though, just to be sure it wasn’t poison or anything. *grin*

best compliment ever

Last night my friend said something in casual conversation that made my whole day, if not my whole life. In her psychology for athletes class they were doing relaxation techniques, and they asked her to visualize something calming, someplace happy. And immediately she visualized my kitchen table, clutter, mess and all, with food (duh) and happy people around. That is so exactly why I cook and futz with my house and do all the goofy domestic foodslut things that I do: to make a place that people feel happy, contented, safe and loved. My kitchen is someone’s happy place: I think I’m gonna cry just writing it down.

bah, humbug

I am just not cut out for baking and candymaking. I tried to make the cranberry-pear jellies from the November Gourmet, and I followed the instructions EXACTLY and today I find they will stay only vaguely cubeshaped and have an alarming tendency to puddle and smush when you pick them up. To make up for this lack in a gift-package to dear friends tonight, I decided to whip up a batch of my great-uncle’s fabulous butter crunch, consisting only of butter & sugar cooked to hard crack & cooled. This of course curdled just as it was starting to color, and though my mother’s suggestion to whisk it actually did manage to recombine it, the damned thing had already overcooked, so now I have rather burnt-tasting crunch, also unfit for gift-giving, and possibly unfit even for surreptitious guilty comfort eating later in the privacy of my own darkened kitchen. All this on top of the parade of slumped-over horrid-looking birthday cakes over the past year. BAH.
At least the cheese scones came out okay, even if the cheese did end up mostly on the outside of the scones in crunchy puddles rather than inside. And I managed not to screw up chocolate dipped pretzels too badly, once I figured out that the colored sugar looks better if you let the chocolate cool almost all the way before dipping into the sugar. However, for my money, it’s the ones sprinkled with fleur de sel that taste best. My taste for salt is clearly a sign that I should leave the confections to the competent, like spleen & hedge. Sigh.
(Update: Second replacement batch of butter crunch also curdled, and would not be reconstituted by any amount of whisking, but at least I didn’t burn it and I was able to salvage it by pouring off the excess butter, then covering its textural deficiencies with chopped nuts & pushing it into the pan by hand. I give up, I swear. Sigh.)

hot breads



mmmmmm, we found a good one. In Woburn there’s a new store called Hot Breads that sells Indian pastries and sandwiches, along with some standard breads and cakes. What could be better on a cold drizzly Saturday than a buttery croissant filled with keema (spiced minced meat) or an open-face “danish” filled with chicken tikka? The answer is either vada pav or dabeli. Vada pav is a spicy savory mashed potato patty, fried & served on a small soft bun spread with spicy mint chutney & run under a sandwich press to toast, with raw onions & a wedge of lime on the side, both of which are worthy additions. Dabeli is a mixture of chickpeas, tomatoes, potato, spices and wee crunchy noodles, served in the same fashion. Holy mackerel, these sammies are good! Yum! For dessert, there are regular sweet cakes & cookies, but also slightly salty masala cookies and cumin seed cookies (my favorite). And everything is very reasonably priced ($1.75 for the croissants, $3 for a single order of two vada pav). Too bad my office isn’t in Woburn anymore. Sigh.

damn, why didn’t I think of that?

As soon as this is typed, I am getting up from the chair to make one of these.
from davesbeer.com:

Italian (-American) Soda

  • sugar, 1-2 T
  • flavor, e.g., vanilla extract, 1 t
  • water, flat, ca. 1 oz
  • water, fizzy, ca. 11 oz

Add sugar to your favorite glass. Add about an ounce of tap water and swirl to dissolve the sugar. Add the flavor extract to the sugar solution. Then, fill with cold fizzy water. I like mine without ice.
I usually don’t care about health or diet, but this drink is quite a bit lighter than a typical soft drink. For instance, when Coke finally oozes out of the can, it has a sugar content around 10% by weight. This version is about 3%.

aha! london indian treasure, retrieved

When in London last November, we ate in a really stupendous Indian restaurant in a northern suburb with a friend, but by the time we got home, we’d lost track of the name of both the restaurant and the suburb. Now maybe we’re easily impressed Americans dulled by the sad state of Indian cookery on our shores, but I was licking plates. This place was so much better than the trendy Pakistani place recommended by droves of people on chowhound.com, which was downright disappointing. I could probably dig up the name of that place, but why would I ever bother, when I have found a little paper wrapper in amongst some really tragically overdue paperwork and now can tell you that we got the *real* eats at Raaz Brasserie in Muswell Hill? 176-178 Fortis Green Road, Muswell Hill, London N10 3DU. 020-8442-1320 or 020 8444 8322. Yay!

cauliflower that even cauliflower-haters will love

I made this tonight for a group of friends, some of whom are vegetarian and needed something yummy to substitute for the turkey tetrazzini I made to use up the last of the damned turkey. (Tallasiandude has declared a moratorium on turkey consumption because all the tryptophan gives him hangovers.) It went over huge, and I have nothing left to photograph — the veggies loved it, the carnivores loved it, and one friend who hates cauliflower loved it. It comes out savory and spicy and a little tangy, and nice & soft & brown & roasty. Easy as hell, too — make a spice vinaigrette, toss with veg, roast. I got this recipe out of Bon Appetit Sept 2004; it was credited to reputedly-fabulous LA restaurant A.O.C. and billed as Roasted Curried Cauliflower. I made a half recipe using one head of cauliflower.
12 cups cauliflower florets (4 lbs)
1 lg onion, quartered
1 tsp coriander seeds (or 1/2 tsp already ground)
1 tsp cumin seeds (ditto)
3/4 cup olive oil
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
3.5 tsp curry powder (I used madras)
1 tbsp hot paprika (I used hungarian hot from Penzey’s, which is pretty spicy — supplement with cayenne if yours isn’t spicy)
1.75 tsp salt (I used kosher salt & it was plenty salty, so if you use table salt, I might cut back a little)
fresh ground pepper
fresh cilantro (very optional)
Preheat oven to 450F. Put florets in large roasting pan or cookie sheet. Separate onion layers and add to pan. Toast coriander & cumin over medium heat 5 minutes till slightly darkened, then crush in a mortar & pestle. (Frankly I think you could skip this step, especially if using already-ground spices, but then again I am lazy and kind of a philistine when it comes to toasting spices.) Combine all the spices & salt & oil & vinegar and whisk or shake to blend. Pour over vegetables & toss to coat. Spread in a single layer, grind some pepper over, and put in oven. Roast until tender, stirring occasionally, about 35 minutes. I found that 35 was just a shade too long and they were starting to burn, but my oven runs hot. Sprinkle with fresh cilantro if desired. These can hold 2 hours, and are good at room temperature or hot, and can be rewarmed at 450F for 10 minutes if desired.
I am actually thinking about making up a batch of the spice blend, so I can have it on hand to use for roasting vegetables in this way at the drop of a hat. Spice, vinegar & umami — what’s not to love?