We took C out to Hot Chocolate, since he’d never been there, and we love it, and J&D also love it, and it was just a lovefest all around.
German pretzel with cheddar/smoked beer dipping sauce, to die for. Bowl got licked.
Green salad with pears and goat cheese, very nice. Spinach salad with duck salami, extremely nice. Wedge salad with thousand island and crabmeat and lardons, frigging perfect. YUM.
Somehow some breadsticks with herbed butter showed up for free. Also tasty, particularly since the butter seemed to have some green garlic in it.
Pleasant Ridge Reserve cheese baked inside brioche and served with roasted turnips and sauteed kale was just dreamy. Normally I wouldn’t order something so theoretically mundane, but we’d had dinner at Custom House the previous night (more on that to come), and I felt like something a little less insane, particularly given the chocolate madness I knew was coming. This cheesy little morsel is worth giving up the exotica for: the brioche is dark brown and almost nutty, the cheese just stinky and melty enough, and the vegetables keep it all from getting too out of hand.
Lamb with krema kase and flatbread: this i thought was tasty, but perhaps a bit salty. It’s a bit like gourmet gyros, which is perfectly fine, but not the best thing on this menu.
Roast chicken was lovely, though I only had a bite of the perfectly crisp, salty skin. Nothing left on the plate once D got through with it.
Braised short rib with brussels sprouts was moist, tender and delicious, though i’ve not been feeling much in the mood for braised meats of late.
Mac and cheese was actually slightly under-awesome this time, lacking some indefinable thing that has in the past pushed it from yummy to mind-bending.
Dark chocolate hot chocolate: yum. Half-and-half with espresso: mocha yum, vroom vroom.
Warm chocolate souffle cake with salted caramel ice cream and pretzel continues to be the perfect dessert. Be still my heart.
Sorbets were amusing, since we ordered coconut and passionfruit, but received spiced pear (excellent) and something quite odd but definitely not passionfruit. When we mentioned it to the waiter, he checked for us, and it turned out the kitchen hadn’t been happy with their passionfruits and made kumquat instead. To make up for that, he brought us two more, a green apple and a blood orange, both good, but that blood orange was best of show, mmmmmmmm.
At that point we were so full we were waddling, but we still managed to get up to Metro in time to see a middle-aged X rock a house full of middle-aged punks…. which was totally awesome. \m/
Chicago: Noodles at Marshall Field’s
[this post has been waiting a MONTH for me to get off my keister and upload the pictures that go with it. sigh. better late than never, i suppose.]
NOODLES BY TAKASHI YAGIHASHI
(in the Seven on State food court)
MACY’S
111 N STATE ST, 7TH FL
(312) 781-4483
Hours: Mon – Sat 11am to 4pm, Closed Sunday
We needed a quickie lunch in the loop before heading to the airport, so i went to this website which lists out a huge lot of loop restaurants. It was quite useful, and we thought this japanese noodle shop might not suck too bad, and it was within a few blocks of the hotel.
Turns out the ramen is delicious! Good quality noodles, tasty broth (we had shoyu) and the moistest, most flavorful slices of pork we’ve ever had in a bowl of ramen. Slightly smallish bowl, but not everyone has the vast noodle-eating capacities of tallasiandude.
I ordered a braised-pork fried rice, which was also delicious, tasting strongly of the wok’s heat and of white pepper, with fresh bits of bok choy and egg and carrot and shiitake and bean sprout, and more lovely moist soft pork.
kitchen notes: oden & ma po tofu
Just a couple of notes to self:
– A while ago, i made some oden using the dried flavor packet you can buy at the Japanese markets. It was pretty meh. Today, i had some daikon to cook up, so i used another of the packets in a medium pot of water, but i amped it up with maybe 1/4 cup shoyu, a big splash of sake & a bigger splash of mirin. MUCH better.
– Tonight we made the Ma Po Tofu recipe from the Pei Mei cookbook volume 1. I didn’t bother deepfrying the tofu first, nor did i have the required pork — all i had was some fresh shiitake. So i just put a bunch of peanut oil into the big skillet, added the garlic & shiitake, fried them a while, then added some more peanut oil (a bit too much really) and the tofu. Then i added the spicy bean paste and soy sauce and let it all fry up for a while. Last went in the chicken broth, which i then set to boiling down. I ground the black pepper on top of the tofu and let it sit there to add flavor. The cornstarch slurry went in just at the end, when the broth was reduced but still entirely liquid. This came out VERY nice indeed, spicy and rich and with a bracing hit of fresh black pepper. The shiitake add a sweet flavor that is entirely lovely, and i would recommend this substitution for any vegetenarians wanting to make a Ma Po Tofu. I like the flavor of this at least as much as any restaurant version, and it goes together in a flash, presuming of course you have spicy bean paste in the house. Which you all should — it’s yummy and has a multitude of uses.
1 package tofu, cut in large cubes
sm package fresh shiitake, cut chunky
4 sm cloves garlic, cut rough
several tbsp peanut oil
2 tbsp spicy bean paste
2-3 tsp soy sauce
sprinkle of salt
1 cup chicken broth
lots of fresh ground black pepper
2 tsp cornstarch + 2 tsp water = slurry
chopped green onion (i didn’t have any)
also it specified to drizzle sesame oil on each serving, but since i overdid it a little on the peanut oil, i skipped it. And yes, we ate it up without taking photos. sorry, y’all.
one other note: though it’s not super spicy and has no szechuan peppercorns, and therefore perhaps is not strictly speaking an authentic szechuan recipe, the recipe from Pei Mei is very tasty. I may try goosing it a little szechuan-style next time, to see what happens.
bacon club eats
The delights at Bacon Club run the gamut from subtle scones to insane desserts to the bacon-wrapped classics. Everything was good, some things were great. We are full. Note to self: Miller High Life is the perfect beer for Bacon Club.
The photographic evidence:
hunter bacon (raw smoked/cured bacon from the russian shop, very chewy & salty and lovely on a vimta cracker), and choco maple bacon bites
did i mention, choco maple bacon bites? holy crap. yum. crispy bacon, with maple cream made with maple syrup and bacon fat cooked & whipped, and topped with a roasted cocoa bean from the Dominican Republic.
crustless fluffernutters with bacon. Elvis-rific.
Korean braised pork belly (braised plain with garlic) with salty sesame sauce & scallions
brussels sprouts with bacon & hot pepper flakes
my bacon cups with mac & cheese on the left, arancini with asparagus & bacon on the right. The bacon cups with mac-cheese did in fact work well — they were tasty and popular, and even the shaggy and tiny ones held their filling well. We filled them before we left home, then ran them through the oven to heat through and crisp the last flabby bits of bacon.
arancini (mmmmmmmm)
tomato-bacon soup (also nice as a sauce for arancini)
bacon-pepper-cheese scones
bananas foster with bacon & pecans
bacon flavored toothpicks
lentils with carrots, celery, onions with slab bacon
artichokes & mushrooms with pancetta & lemon
artichokes with mustard, wrapped in bacon and broiled — this is a really tasty thing, and probably quite easy… i may steal it for my next party
borscht with bacon… i didn’t actually try this last one, as its maker arrived with it long after I had already stuffed staggering amounts of bacon down my gullet
Also, special bonus recipe from our lovely Bacon Club hostess: for bacon caramel popcorn, cook equal parts B-grade maple syrup and bacon fat to the hard crack stage, mix with popcorn, crisped bacon pieces and pecans. She said that 2 cups each syrup & bacon fat was enough for 10 cups popcorn. Let me know if you try it before i do.
bacon club
We have some friends who came over for Chow & Chow, and we got to talking about other forms of gastronomic excess… which led us to discuss their ongoing potluck series, Bacon Club. You see where this is going, don’t you? Heh.
Bacon Club involves a number of pork-fat-loving folk gathering together, each with their own bacon dish, and consuming all those bacony treats and compatible alcohols in one evening of porcine delight. Obviously we were not going to miss this.

It’s tonight, and we are making bacon cups filled with macaroni and cheese. We’d recently seen the bacon cups on Not Martha and been exceedingly impressed, so of course they sprang immediately to mind. Those had been filled with lettuce and tomato, for a breadless BLT, but tomatoes are appallingly out of season at the moment, so we cast about for a more suitable filling. Mac & cheese seemed suitably excessive and decadent.
I never like most homemade mac & cheese, because it’s insufficiently cheesy. So i surfed around, and my conclusion is that the inadequate cheese flavor is due to two things: use of mild rather than strong cheeses, and use of bechamel. The flour dulls the taste of cheese. Interestingly, a 19th century recipe involved only laying slices of cheese in layers with macaroni and baking till melted.

I found a few recipes without any flour, and it’s easy enough to swap in whatever cheeses you like… so i settled on Alton Brown’s stovetop recipe, with a bit heavier hand with the hot sauce and mustard powder and cheese (12oz instead of 10), and a bit of sauteed onion just for grins. This came out rather good, though tallasiandude thought it too sharply cheesy (sigh). Anyway, i think that i will stick with this as a basic template, and perhaps next time i will add a bit of prepared mustard to give it a little acid zing to balance the cheesy richness. Or swap in a little chevre for some of the cheddar, mmmm. Or perhaps even a little Velveeta, for that low-rent orange meltiness — i used to make my grilled cheese sandwiches with one Kraft single and one slice of sharp cheddar, to get the best of both worlds. Those were frickin’ awesome.
But back to bacon… the first few woven bacon cups came out perfect, though they took about 40 minutes to fully cook, but the last few batches have shrunk too much too fast and been done in about 20 mins. Part of it is that the different packs of bacon have slices of different widths, and it’s harder to get it right with thinner slices, but the other part must be that the oven is now too hot. So we have a number of raggedy-ass bacon cup-slash-scraps, and a few that are tiny little thimbles, but perhaps once they are topped with creamy mac-and-cheese, no one will notice.



Hmm, I’ve just now done another batch and they seem fine, and i think i’ve figured out the problem: one of my muffin tins is modern and flimsy, and another is vintage and heavy… and the problem was with the heavy old tin. As I was pouring off the fat from a pan that’s been sitting out of the oven for 15 minutes — the cookie sheet base was cool enough to lift up and pour from — I noticed that the muffin tin itself was still hot enough to be uncomfortable to hold. If the inner support is hot enough to cook the bacon from inside at the same time as the oven cooks from the outside, that might be what’s shrinking them up and popping them off the tins.



I’ll post again once we’re back from Bacon Club, with the final verdict and photos. Either way, it’s awfully fun to spend a morning doing arts and crafts with raw bacon and then filling the house with the smell of crisped bacon. Yay.
BTW: we used 4 12oz packs of regular thin-cut bacon for this, which filled two large trays (maybe 25 cups). I made a whole pound of pasta rather than Alton’s 8oz, and it seemed cheesy enough, but perhaps it would be saucier with less pasta. In any case, a drier, clingier mac-n-cheese was just the ticket for this application, as it stayed in the cups properly and didn’t ooze liquid cheese through the holes in many of the cups when re-heated. Not that you need even close to that much mac-n-cheese; we’ve got 2/3 of the pot left for dinner tomorrow.
(PS: I don’t seem to have any posts about Chow & Chow, and neither does tallasiandude — we must have been too busy. This was a rather fun party in which we made a boatload of dumplings and other chinese dishes, ate them, and then stayed up far too late watching Stephen Chow movies. Recommended.)
it’s been said before…
…but i am not sure what my work life would be without Coke Zero. It’s not a habit or a daily thing, but when one works on data verification until 11:45pm and gets up at 5:15am to catch a flight to a client site, and must still be lucid and presentable and, saints preserve us, personable for the entire afternoon — it simply would not happen without a slow drip of the Zero.
Whole Foods Veggie Beans snack
OK, this product is just weird. Freeze dried green beans, somehow processed with canola oil, dextrin & salt to become a crunchy snack. I get it — a salty crunchy snack with a low glycemic index and lots of fiber. But i tried a few just now, from the box that I got from my parents for Christmas, and they’re just somehow *wrong*.
They do taste identifiably, if faintly, like green beans, which is nice, but with a faintly unpleasant sweet taste, and a few hard bits mixed in with the crunch, like when you get Corn Nuts that are a little over-cooked and you think you’re going to break your teeth. (I don’t eat Corn Nuts anymore either, so maybe I have a thing.) I had to put the lid back on the box and stop after like 4 beans, and i still have a little icky feeling on my tongue which i might have to drown with a few Utz Cheez Balls.
spam musubi
This is one of the more notorious specialties of Hawai’i, but I’ll tell ya, these little buggers are awfully tasty. And handy, too — when you can nip into any convenience mart and snag a portable block of tasty handheld carbs+protein+fat, for less than 2 bucks, and be back on your way to the beach, there ain’t nothin’ not to like about that.
I think every single spam musubi we bought on the islands was different than the others, which is hilarious. Some have teriyaki sauce, some have panko crumbs, some have egg, some have furikake, some are plain. Sometimes they’re in the hot case, sometimes out at room temp (rarely in the fridge, these people are respectful of their rice).
But my most favorite of all of them was the first, the hot-case teriyaki-brushed spam musubi clearly handmade by someone at the Kukui’ula Market on Kaua’i, between Kahoa & Poipu. They were the most flavorful, thanks to the play between sweet-savory teri sauce and salty-savory spam, and the rice was warm and soft and held together just right. The nori got a little chewy, but i can overlook such a flaw. Once we found these, i think we ate at least one every day the rest of the time we were on Kaua’i.
(more musubi photos to come)
Pita Kebab
Whilst downtown today, i walked by a little hole in the wall labeled “Pita Kebab” that had a newspaper review on the window that said it was Persian and had great kubideh.
Say no more.
I stopped in for lunch, and though that kubideh was perfectly fine, especially for wicked-fast takeout, it wasn’t all that. The clipping said it was richly spiced, delectable, etc., and frankly I didn’t detect much spice at all, and it desperately needed salt. Ditto on the rice: fragrant and tender, but a little bit bland, in dire need of some nice salted butter. The chopped salad, however, was top-shelf, super flavorful and lemony and minty, yum yum.
So Molana is better, though twice the price, and my own kitchen is better even than that, but if you work in the Downtown Crossing/Chinatown area, it’s a nice change of pace for lunch takeout.
Trader Joe’s Sea Salt Dark Chocolate Caramels
I just finished off the box of Trader Joe’s Sea Salt Dark Chocolate Caramels, and felt moved to blog.
These are great. More please!
Actually, i do agree with the assessment on the site i linked to above — they are not perfect, i have had better caramels — but damn, I sure do like caramel + dark chocolate + big crunchy hunks of salt. Short of a trip back to LA’s Little Flower Candy Company, which sold me the best freaking salt caramels I’ve ever eaten, this massmarket treat will most certainly do.
i just hope they don’t sell them only during the winter holidays…